First ascent, Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler. July 1981.
Two sets wires, Single rack to 3”, double 0.6”- 1.75”. Double ropes are very useful on this route!.
This route climbs the long crack system to the left of Lucky Streaks. When the crack system ends, a crux traverse gives access to summit overhangs. The route weaves a spectacular path through these overhangs to the top.
This route is a Tuolumne classic, with bold and intricate climbing on every pitch.
Start about 100 feet to the left of the huge corner of Lucky Streaks. Look for three cracks systems 10- 15 feet apart. The middle crack of the three is easy to spot since it opens up into a series of deep pods. Mr Kamps starts up the rightmost of the three cracks.
1. 160’ 5.10a Climb straight up the crack, until a bold move (10a) is required to reach a good flake. From the top of the flake move right to a bolt, then traverse right (5.9) to reach a good crack which is followed to a ledge on the right. Save a 2” cam for the anchor.
2. 75’ 5.10b Continue up the thin crack to a bolt at 45' ,then move up and right to a second bolt. Make a thin move past the bolt (10b) then a 15’ runout to a small ledge with a bolt anchor.
3. 130’ 5.10c Climb straight up (two bolts, the second is brown and hard to see) to a small roof. Move over the roof to a bolt then traverse left, past a flake, to reach a shallow corner. Climb boldly up the corner (peg) to reach a better crack which is followed to a small ledge 50’ higher. Good, medium wires and small cams for the anchor.
4. 100’ 5.10b Continue up the corner system above, easily at first then with some thinner moves and tricky protection to reach an anchor at the top of the corner.
5. 100’ 5.11b Climb up to a bolt above a flake, then make a 15ft runout to a second bolt (Sustained, 11a). Climb up and right (2 bolts) then make a very thin traverse straight right to reach an obvious undercling. Pull over the small roof above and make bouldery moves past two bolts (11b) to reach another roof. Pull over this roof and arrange an awkward anchor in the crack underneath the huge roof above. (#.75, #2, #3 Camalots, wires)
6. 80’ 5.10a From the anchor, step down, and traverse right on knobs just above the lip of the lower roof, until it is possible to climb back up to the main roof. Arrange some so so protection here (small cams) then step boldly right and undercut to good holds above the roof. Pull over to a right facing corner which is followed to a small ledge at its top. Nuts and small cams for the anchor.
7. 150’ 5.9 Climb up to the next roof, then traverse right and pull over the right edge of the roof to a bolt. Traverse left and up on knobs, eventually reaching a horizontal seam which leads left to a small ledge with a bolt above, This section involves a 40 ft runout with some 5.9 climbing, (X). From the bolt traverse left (5.9) to reach a right facing corner. Belay near the top of the corner beside a small overhang. (wires, small cams, #3 Camalot).
8. 100’ 5.6 Climb straight up easy slabs to a tree at the top.
Route descriptions and topos of classic routes from other areas.
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