Freeway 1130' 5.11c/d
Tom Gibson, Rob Rohn, 1979. FFA Dean Hart, Randy Atkinson, July 1990. Express Lane; John Rosholt, Hamish Fraser. August 1995.
2 sets wires, 2 sets tcu’s to 2.5"cams, one 3”, 3.5".
Freeway is a superb all free climb up the Dihedrals section of the Chief at Squamish. The climbing is sustained, but best characterized as technical rather than strenuous, with generally good protection. The route is described with the Express Lane finish since the superb exposed face climbing of this variation adds some extra variety and quality to an already great route.
The upper part of this route is usually subject to raptor closures until August. The route is commonly done by climbing to the top of pitch six then rapping with two ropes.
The start of the route is obscured by thick trees. The best bet is to look for a clearing at the base of the Dihedrals section of the wall. There are two obvious large ramps on this section of the wall, Freeway starts up the right ramp, which is less obvious that the left ramp from directly below. From the clearing scramble up and right through thick trees to a small open ledge below the start of the ramp. Climb up onto the ramp and belay at a tree.
1. 90' 5.10c Climb the bolted slab (5 b's), curving back right to belay at a large tree.
Note:The first pitch is usually avoided by continuing up the ramp to a fixed line. Hand over hand up the fixed line to reach a large tree at the base of the second pitch.
2. 130' 5.11a/b Move left and up to an overlap. Undercling left (b) and pull into sustained thin cracks and seams which are followed to a second bolt. Move past the bolt into a hand crack which is followed to an anchor.
3. 130' 5.10b Step out right into a beautiful hand crack. Jam up the crack, which gradually narrows, to reach an anchor at 50'. From the anchor make a step around to the right to reach a downsloping break. Traverse right across the break (4 b's) to reach an anchor on a small ledge below a curving left-facing corner.
4. 110' 5.11b Climb the corner, past a technical sequence at its apex. Continue up thin cracks above into a handcrack/flake. Up this, then the face above, moving right to a good small ledge.
5. 50' 5.11b Climb the thin corner above, and continue to a bolt. Move past the bolt to reach an anchor on a big sloping ledge.
6. 170' 5.11a Continue up the mighty corner above to an anchor below overhangs. A long, sustained pitch with great jams and fingerlocks all the way.
7. 40' 5.11c/d Move left and pull over the initial roof into a short corner. Move left around the second roof then up to an anchor below another roof.
8. 70' 5.11a Make a wild traverse right to reach easier face climbing straight up (2 b's) to reach an anchor just left of a small corner.
9. 160' 5.11a Step down and right to the small corner. Climb the corner then go up and left (2 b's) to a sloping ledge. Go up the ledge, then up and left (2 b's) to a belay on the arete. The crux moves are well protected,but some of the easier sections of this pitch are runout.
10. 100' 5.10c Continue up the arete then move right into a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge at its top.
11. 80' 5.10d Move out left and climb the steep bolted arete to the top.
Route descriptions and topos of classic routes from other areas.
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