The Rock Climbs of Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
The Land, Rules and Regulations ~ The Rock ~ The Weather
Transportation ~ Camping and Amenities
The pages on the right are sample pages from the Red Rock climbing guide. They include the entire introduction, and random pages showing the various styles of maps, topo's photo-diagrams and descriptions that are used throughout the book. The featured route is Frogland in Black Velvet Canyon, one of the classic moderate rock climbs in Red Rocks Canyon, Nevada.
About this Red Rock Climbing Guide Book
This guide book documents the rock climbs found in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area, 20 miles west of the Las Vegas strip in Nevada. It includes a substantial number of rock climbing routes not found in previous climbing guide books. It also expands on the descriptions of many of the older routes and attempts to correct some lingering errors. In compiling the route descriptions for both new and older rock climbs, I have tried to use recent, first-hand experience as much as possible. Many descriptions were culled from various Red Rocks locals within a few hours of an ascent. Also, in researching this book, I climbed hundreds of routes myself in an attempt to make this the most complete, detailed, and accurate Red Rocks climbing guide book to date. To give a flavor of the short but lively history of Red Rock Canyon I have included an historical essay in the introductory section, written with Larry DeAngelo, the unofficial historian of Red Rocks. There are also several articles spread throughout the main text, written by some of the main protagonists.
The Land, Rules and Regulations
The rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon lies within the boundaries of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The land received this designation in 1990 to protect and preserve what was then recognized as a resource of national importance. The land is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, from the Las Vegas District Office, (702 515 5000).
There are two wilderness areas within Red Rock National Conservation Area, Rainbow Mountain Wilderness area, which includes all the canyons, and La Madre Mountain Wilderness which includes the Kraft Mountain area of Calico Basin.
| Scenic Loop Hours |
| November 1 to February 28/29 |
6:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. |
| March 1 to March 31 |
6:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. |
| April 1 to September 30 |
6:00 A.M. to 8:00 P.M. |
| October 1 to October 31 |
6:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. |
| Entrance Fee Schedule(AS OF MAY 2007)
|
| Daily |
Car |
$5.00 |
|
Motorcycle |
$2.00 |
| Annual Passes |
Red Rock |
$20.00 |
|
America the Beautiful Pass.
(Interagency) |
$85.00 |
|
Golden Age |
$10.00 |
| Cabs, Buses Etc. |
Per Passenger |
$2.00 |
Most of the northern half of Red Rock Canyon is accessed from the Red Rock Scenic Drive. This is a gated 13-mile-long loop road which requires an entrance fee, and has restricted access hours. Vehicles left inside the park Scenic Drive after hours are subject to a heavy fine ($120 in 2007). Please note that this includes the parking area beside the fee station at the Scenic Drive entrance. Late exit permits are available to provide an additional three hours after the normal closing time. These permits are available only for multi-pitch climbing routes, not for the Calico Hills or Willow Springs. To obtain a permit, you can call up to seven days in advance. No permits are issued after 4.30 p.m. There is no paper permit to pick up, just call 702 515 5050. If you do not reach one of the climbing rangers, you will need to leave the following information. If using a cell phone make sure your signal is clear.
- Your name, address, and phone number.
- Your vehicle license number/state and description.
- The date of your climb and location where you will park.
- Which permit and route you are applying for.
- An emergency contact name and phone number.
If you have additional questions or comments feel free to call a climbing ranger (Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.) at 702 515 5000.
For multi-day routes it is also possible to get an overnight permit.
These are issued for the following walls only: |
| Mt. Wilson |
1-2 nights |
| Eagle Wall |
1 night |
| Rainbow Wall |
1-2 nights |
| Buffalo Wall |
1-3 nights |
| Hidden Wall |
1-3 nights |
| Bridge Mountain |
1 night |
With the exception of the Red Springs parking area in Calico Basin, all the areas outside the Scenic Drive are not subject to the same time restrictions.
Camping is not allowed anywhere in the National Conservation Area. In particular this includes the network of dirt roads, accessed from route 160, which provide access to Black Velvet Canyon and the other areas at the southern end of the range. The rangers regularly patrol this area looking for campers, and the fines are stiff.
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The Rock
Red Rock Canyon is composed of a three-thousand-foot thick escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, which has weathered into a series of ten major canyons which drain from west to east. This rock is generally quite well bonded, being more solid than that found in the other great sandstone areas of the west, such as Zion or Canyon lands. Another major difference is that much of the rock is covered with a thin layer of desert varnish which, on many of the faces, has partially weathered to leave behind a sea of good incut edges. It is these edges which allow routes like Dream of Wild Turkeys, Eagle Dance, and Crimson Chrysalis to climb such impressive features at a reasonable standard. In general, the unvarnished white and red rock can be soft, sandy and rounded in its natural state, although it cleans up well on popular routes to give very enjoyable climbing. The varnished rock provides superb climbing, especially on some of the north-facing walls where the varnish has resisted weathering and there are far fewer face holds. On these walls the long, clean, crack and corner systems provide some of the best routes in Red Rock Canyon. The edges that are the hallmark of so much of the climbing at Red Rock Canyon can be quite fragile in their natural state. On popular climbs the loose holds and fragile lips are gradually cleaning up, but even on these routes it is not uncommon to pop a foothold or two. Some of the more recent and/or less traveled routes can feel very fragile and require careful climbing. Climbers also have to be aware of larger blocks and flakes which crop up from time to time and can be amazingly unstable.
By far the most important factor affecting rock quality is precipitation. The Aztec Sandstone is porous and easily absorbs water; when waterlogged the rock becomes much weaker, causing holds to break with alarming ease. During long stretches of dry weather the rock will dry out in a few hours after an isolated rainstorm. However, after a long spell of heavy rain, it can take up to three days for the rock to dry out. In fact, during a wet “El Nino” year the rock can feel snappy all winter long. It is important to stay off routes when the rock is wet, especially in the Calico Hills where the rock is particularly soft after rain, and the loss of a crucial hold can easily destroy a classic route for good.
Despite these words of doom, the rock in Red Rock Canyon is generally superb and a joy to climb, many of the classic routes rank with the best of their grade anywhere in the world.
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The Weather
The numbers say it all: Red Rock Canyon is often blessed with perfect climbing conditions for months on end, with the spring and fall each usually having three months of perfect weather.
Average temperature 66.3 degrees (19 degrees centigrade). Average yearly rainfall 4.13 inches (10.64 centimeters). Average daily humidity 29 percent. 211.5 clear days annually, 82.4 partly cloudy days, 71.3 cloudy days.
Red Rock Canyon is one of the few areas that can genuinely claim to offer year-round climbing. It is possible to find reasonable climbing conditions on all but a few of the hottest days of the year, when temperatures creep up towards 110˚F or more. Nevertheless, during the ho ttest and coldest times of year, comfortable climbing depends on making good choices and being prepared to adapt your objectives to suit the prevailing weather of the day. In particular, warm weather climbing takes some getting used to; sunny approaches must be tackled early in the morning and climbing is not feasible until your chosen route goes into the shade. Climbing in the canyons during colder weather also requires some thought. The difference between sun and shade is often dramatic, 30˚F or more. It is quite common to be comfortable in the parking area and freezing on the route. The temperature in the canyons is usually at least 10˚F colder than town and can feel a lot colder if there is any wind. A wind shell is almost always a good idea. By contrast, the south-facing walls in the Calico Hills can feel hot on all but the coldest days so bring plenty of water and some light clothing.
Wind is an important factor to consider at all times of year. The reason is not so much how it affects the climbing as what it does to rappel ropes. The sharp flakes that cover many of the faces are always a problem when rappelling, but with the wind whipping the ropes all over the wall, the chances of a snagged rope are greatly increased. Some of the taller walls in Red Rock Canyon are very exposed, and if your chosen route involves a rappel descent, strong winds can pose a serious hazard. Walls such as the Eagle Wall and Crimson Chrysalis are best avoided under these conditions.
It is worth remembering that the weather data are only averages. During El Nino years, when a huge bubble of warm water shows up in the Western Pacific, Red Rock Canyon will often have a miserable wet winter. During any winter, snowstorms can happen any time from October until April, with the snow sticking around for many days in the canyons. In the summer, a sudden storm can cause very cold conditions on long back country routes, and any canyon can flash flood without warning.
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Transport
Although some hardy individuals do without, a car is pretty much essential for climbing at Red Rock Canyon. There is no public transportation system, and the distances involved are just too great for walking to be a reasonable option. Las Vegas is one of the least expensive places in the country to rent a car.
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Camping, Groceries, Showers Etc.
At present, there is only one campground close to Red Rock Canyon. It is located at the end of a one mile long spur road on the southeast side of route 159. The spur road is called Moenkopi, and is on the right 1.9 miles east of the Scenic Drive entrance, and 0.5 miles east of the Calico Basin Road. Alternatively, if you are driving west out of town along Charleston Boulevard, it is on the left, 3.2 miles west of the Charleston/215 interchange. It is a relatively primitive campsite with pit toilets, picnic tables and a water tap, all for $10 per night. The sites are available on a first come first served basis and there is a 14 day limit. The Campground is closed June, July and August.
Unfortunately there have been quite a few instances of theft in the last couple of years, so don’t leave valuables in the tent.
Within five miles from the campsite, and getting closer every year, the west end of Charleston Boulevard is one of the main suburban shopping areas in Las Vegas with all manner of grocery stores, coffee shops, casinos etc.
Showers are available for $4.00 at the Red Rock Climbing Center, 8201 W. Charleston Blvd. Phone: 702 254 5604
Sahara West Library (9600 West Sahara Ave.; 702 507 3630) is at the corner of Grand Canyon and Sahara. Surprisingly, Las Vegas has a very good library system, and if you’re here for an extended visit it is well worth getting a library card. It’s free, and a photo ID is all that’s required to get one. The West Sahara Library has twenty seven internet terminals that you can use free for an hour.
Free wireless Internet service is provided at Desert Rock Sports, located at 8221 W. Charleston Blvd., a few doors up from the Red Rock Climbing Center. As well as being a retailer of all things climbing, this store often puts on special events such as slide shows and film screenings.
There is dispersed camping in Lovell Canyon, the canyon to the west of the Red Rock range. It is accessed from route 160 by taking a right at the bottom of the hill to the west of Mountain Springs. There are no facilities, and it’s a long drive (25 miles from the Scenic Drive), but there are some nice spots to spend the night in a pinch. Stays are limited to 14 days
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