Black Velvet Canyon. Mustang Wall

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Black Velvet Canyon. Mustang Wall

Post by redrocksguide » Mon Apr 19, 2021 1:45 pm

There are several routes in this sector on the far right side of The Monument.
About 100 yards uphill and left of the triangular buttress containing Mustang
Cracks, Huckleberries etc. is a huge right-facing chimney/corner; the line of The Dragon.

Approach:To reach these routes scramble up and left from the base Mustang Cracks to a small open area below a cul-de-sac. 50' above is a lone pine tree on a ledge. Scramble up an easy corner (the left of two, 5.2) that leads directly to the pine tree then step around right to a nice ledge below a crack in a short, varnished wall.

Pegasus 455' 5.12a *
Single rack to 2", Full set of wires. Optional 3" and extra 1.75" & 2".
Enjoyable moderate climbing leads to a really excellent last pitch.
1. 160' 5.10a Go up the crack to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner (2 b's) then step left to a big, right-facing corner/crack. Go up the corner then move right into a long, narrow, left-facing corner. Climb the corner, making liberal use of the right arete then finish up an awkward pod to the anchor.
2. 70' 5.10a Make a delicate traverse left (2 b's) then climb a pretty grey groove and the shallow corner above. At the top of the shallow corner, step left to an anchor.
3. 100' 5.10a Climb to a bolt 15' up. Climb around the bolt to the right, then step back left on a foot ledge and continue up a nice system of thin cracks to an anchor on a ledge below a steep headwall.
4. 125' 5.12a Low in the grade but a great pitch with mostly wires (of all sizes) for protection. Step right from the anchor and move up onto the steep headwall above(2 b's). From the second bolt, make an intricate traverse right to a beautiful thin crack. Punch up the crack on sinker locks but with thin feet. The crack gradually slabs off and lead to a smooth headwall. Go around the headwall on the right, move up, then step back left to the anchor.
Descent: An 80m rope works best. 2 Raps to the anchor above pitch 2, then rap to the anchor above pitch 1 of The Dragon. Another rap leads to the tree at the start of the route (with an 80m rope it is better to rap past the tree to the start of the initial scramble).

Another route starts up Pegasus. From the two bolts 40' up the first pitch this route branches right and climbs a series of cracks in the right side of the wall for several pitches.

The Dragon 470' 5.11a
Single rack to 4", double 1.75" to 4". Long runners. Optional extra 1.75".
An enjoyable but slightly graunchy route up the huge right-facing corner system that defines the left side of the wall. A healthy dose of crack climbing of various sizes with a short, but very thin slab crux which is easily aided.
Approach as for Pegasus, but start on the higher ledge 10' above the lone pine tree.
1a. 90' 5.10a Climb to the base of a slender, right-facing groove. Climb to the top of the groove (tricky, thin pro) then continue up the wall above until it is possible to step left to some good protection. Step down and left to the base of a big, white flake which leads (b) up and left to an anchor above a chockstone.
1b. 80' unknown. There is a bolt in the slabby face to the left of the normal start. Climb past the bolt to reach the base of the white flake direct.
1c. 95' 5.10a Start up Pegasus to the big right-facing corner crack 50' up. Place a high piece then step left around the corner to join the regular first pitch just before the step down to the white flake.
2. 100' 5.10a Climb the big, right-facing flake above the anchor then continue carefully past some blocky terrain to a steep right-leaning corner/crack. Climb the corner to a perfect ledge (4 b's).
3. 70' 5.10c Climb an easy flare then a short chimney (b) to a small ledge. Battle up the short offwidth above (b) to a higher ledge with an anchor.
4. 130' 5.11a A slightly bold layback leads up the corner above to some huecos. Follow the huecos up to a bolt then make some really slippery moves across a smooth slab to the base of a stepped flake (3 b's, black hangers). From the flake, stretch left to some good holds and protection, then climb a really nice layback corner to a good ledge.
Variation: 5.10b * Start up the regular pitch 4. From the huecos, traverse hard right past three bolts (grey hangers) then move up to the belay ledge above pitch 3 of Pegasus. To keep the rope drag manageable it is best to anchor here. From the anchor, a short traverse left leads past a bolt to rejoin the regular route at the base of the stepped flake. This variation is very worthwhile since it keeps the grade more consistent.
5. 80' 5.10a Layback up the sharp-edged 4" crack above to reach a wedged block. Continue up the right-slanting branch of the crack system above to a ledge then move up and left to an anchor in a huge block.
Descent: With a 70m rope, 2 raps to the ledge above pitch 3 of Pegasus. Rap to the anchor above pitch 2 of Pegasus, then rap to the anchor above pitch 1 of The Dragon. Another rap leads to the tree at the start of the route (with an 80m rope it is better to rap past the tree to the start of the initial scramble).

Burros Gone Wild 160' 5.10d
Josh Janes, Sawyer Bullock. Winter 2017
Single rack to 4", extra small & mid-sized cams.
This route climbs the huge, right-curving maw between the top pitches of Pegasus and The Dragon. Start at the anchor above pitch 3 of Pegasus. Traverse left, as for the upper part of the variation pitch 4 of Dragon and continue to the base of the layback corner. From here traverse right to the base of the arch. Potential belay, this is awkward and hanging but, If you don't belay here, some strategy is required to keep rope drag manageable. Continue up the arch which eventually leads to the anchor of Pegasus.

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